There are so many other maps that I like to see again Gridlock, War machine and Villa. Drop shot is my least fav weapon probably of all time in gears.
Much prefer the digger. I do struggle for any consistency hitting my shots on with dropshot. Ok, then we must remove frags, shocks, incends, boom, salvo and torque also.
Am i correct?? The Dropshot is way easier to kill people with than the Digger was. Buzzkill is 2 hits for kill, frags is 1 hit same for torque, incends and boom and i dont think theres any difference to what is used if ur behind cover to kill u.
Idk how much better I can explain this to you bro. Buzzkills and Dropshots do all the work for you. Throwables require some accuracy when you throw and leave an opportunity to be dodged. The window of opportunity to dodge a Dropshot is significantly shorter than throwables. Boomshots are hard to dodge but they shoot in a straight line and can be predictable. You can see that I added a bunch of screws and the square groove along the top curved piece.
The logo is also shown which is covered in the next step. The light bars presented a unique challenge. I needed to keep in the back of my mind that I would have to run wiring through all of the pieces I build. It's important that the wires are not seen either. Each light bar consists of a bunch of little pieces, so there is a lot to build. Luckily each of the three light bars is identical with the exception of the shorter post on the center one. To make my life easier I decided it would be quicker to mold and cast a few of the more complicated pieces.
These are visible as the white resin pieces in the top right of picture 2. I'll briefly break down the construction of each piece and how I went about building it. Main Rails and Posts These parts were the least complicated to make of all of the pieces for the light rigs. To create the beveled edges on the rails, I laid down some small L shaped pieces of styrene from the local hobby shop.
Here is a list of the types of styrene pieces you can find at a hobby store. This stuff can be very useful for small details on props and I tend to use it a lot for various parts. I used some Apoxie Sculpt to create the bevel. This is the white edge around the rails in picture 1. The vertical posts also had some small pieces of styrene glued around their bases, and were beveled again with Apoxie Sculpt. You can see in picture 2 that posts and rails have holes drilled in them.
These will be used for 2 purposes: so that everything is pegged together for strength, and to run the wires for the LEDs through them. Picture 1 shows these posts temporarily installed so I can see how they fit. There are a few more minor cosmetic details, like bolts, that will be added after the wires are run and the bars are permanently attached together.
I don't have a picture of these but they are visible in later steps. Light Housing and Lenses The light housings consist of 3 different pieces. The main house, the lens, and the cap that holds the lens in place.
I'll start with the housing, picture 3. The master for this was carved out of MDF meticulously using my band saw, belt sander, and Dremel. I tried to keep the walls of this piece as thin as possible so there would be plenty of room for the LED. After some meticulous work, I primed it and made a quick block mold of the piece. I used Smoothcast and made 3 copies of it. You can see the original master, the mold, and a cast piece in picture 3. The cap was made to snugly fit inside this housing, but was made separately from the housing.
The cap was made from 3 different pieces of styrene layered together to create the various lips. The inside edge got some Apoxie Sculpt, creating a 45 degree bevel.
Just like the housing, it was primed, had a block mold made, and 3 copies were pulled with Smoothcast You can see this in picture 4. The lens was made from the same clear textured plastic as the inner section of the large side gears on the body.
However, they needed to be slightly bubbled, so there was a little more work to do than just cut them to the right size. You can see in picture 5 on the left side that I carved a quick bubble to fit inside the cap that represented the shape for the lens. I heated up the plastic with my heat gun and used the cap and the form to mold the lens to the new shape. It worked perfectly, and I was left with 3 bubbled textured lens.
All I had to do was to trim down each lens to fit within the housing and cap. Fork These forks were a little more time consuming that I originally thought. The forks are the white curved pieces that attach to the back of the light housings. I started out by layering a few pieces of MDF together to build up the thickness of the piece. Using my Dremel with a very small sanding drum, I slowing carved away at the piece until it was very close to the proper shape. I used Apoxie Sculpt to fill in any areas that still needed some material.
Like the light housings, I decided to make a mold of these, making them stronger. So I primed the part and sanded it smooth so I could make the mold.
The piece is still a little rough but I'll clean up the casts. After the mold was done, I pulled 3 pieces and got to work on the clean up. I sanded all of the surfaces nice and smooth and used my Dremel to add a small 45 bevel around all of the outer edges, creating a little detail.
You can see the mold and a cast piece in picture 6. I somehow misplaced the original part before I took the picture. These will be both epoxied and screwed to the light housing for added strength after all the pieces are built. Lower Support This piece is pretty straight forward.
In picture 2 , these are the U shaped pieces on the left. Building these was nice and easy. With my Dremel I sanded a slight 45 degree bevel on the outside edges. These will attach to the lens housings and be the primary piece that holds them in place. Nothing to it. You can see the profile view of these in picture 9 really well.
All that's left is to run the wiring and attach all the pieces. I started with the rails and posts, feeding the 2 wires through the drilled holes and then gluing the parts together. Next was the various parts for the front. Lower support, fork and lens housing, all glued together and the wiring run through the housing.
The top bolts in picture 4 are cosmetic only, but the bottom bolts are holding everything in place. The LEDs will be tackled after the base paint in applied. Locust Logo The logo on the front barrel of the gun is the only piece on the gun that I decided would be easier to have 3D printed rather then trying to make it by hand.
The whole piece is only a little over an inch wide, has lots of angles and bevels, and I needed 2 of them These pieces will also be illuminated as part of the lighting for the whole gun.
The piece was quickly modeled up in Max, picture 1 , referencing the high res model. It needed some adjustments to make it print ready, such as giving the walls thickness and a lip for the fogged acrylic piece, as well as a few other requirements from the printer. I decided to use Ponoko for printing simply because I have used them in the past for a few projects and have been happy with the results.
There are quite a few options out there for 3D printing and laser cutting so I suggest doing some research and looking around. There might even be a place locally in your area that can do it. The only down side is that it can take a few weeks to get your pieces. Picture 2 shows my Ponoko order page. Picture 3 show the final printed piece after it has been test fitted on the side of the nose. After the pieces finally arrived from Ponoko, I made a mold just to be on the safe side in case anything happened while I was working on them.
That way I could cast a new one if necessary and not have to order a new one. I traced each piece onto the side of the barrel and with my Dremel started to bore out the cavity that will hold the LED. After some work, they were ready to go. I also drilled out a hole from the back of the nose to this cavity to run the wires. I will glue these in place after the nose has received its base coat of metallic paint, so I don't have to worry about trying to mask off such a small area.
I have included the. One of the new tools I got recently was this central machinery lathe from Harbor Freight. It really came in handy on this project. There are quite a few pieces on this prop that ended up coming off of the lathe. Since this was really the first time I have ever used a lathe, I spent about 2 days just playing around with it and various materials to get used to how it carved.
There are countless resources out there for learning how to turn projects on a lathe, so if this is something you are interested in, I recommend doing some research on the subject.
Here is a link to a YouTube account that has some good videos of turning projects. I'm not going to go into too much detail here on using a lathe, as it is really only a small part of this overall project.
During my tests, I decided to see what would happened if I used some of the Smoothcast resin I had instead of a block of wood. Turns out that it turns really really well The one thing I really like about turning resin is that it is almost perfectly smooth right off the lathe. Almost all of the pieces required minimal additional work and they painted extremely well.
The only real downside that I noticed was that the resin would tend to flex a little once it started to get thin. Picture 1 is a good example of roughly where that point was. It was possible to get around this though by going really slowing and only taking away small amounts of material at a time. I ended up spending about a day making all of the pieces required for the Digger Launcher, which was about 15 pieces in total.
You can see a good collection of them in picture 2 and picture 3 , and a few of them in their final locations on the gun.
The side gears each had 2 small pieces. The light assemblies on the front of the gun each had 2 pieces as well for a total of 6 on the front. There are 2 handles on the sides of the main body and the pieces in picture 2. The last lathed piece is on the back of the clip.
All of these smaller detail parts really add to the overall gun. There is still a lot of work to go, so let's move onto the side panels! The two side panels presented a unique challenge for this project, being that the entire surface is curved both vertically and horizontally. I decided the best solution for this problem would be to vacuform the shapes.
Problem is I don't have a vacuform machine. I managed to simulate the process using only an oven. I'll explain more about this in a moment. I first needed to build a form for the two sides. The next step was to go into the 3D model and grab the cross sections of the curves. I did this every 2 inches or so and cut out the shapes to create a rib structure on the base plates.
I then filled in the gaps with scrap wood and applied a coat of Bondo over the surface to fill in any low spots. After some time under my hand sander, I had a surface that looked like picture 1. You'll notice they are a mirror of each other and represent the shape of each side.
The next step is to shape the plastic sheets to these forms. I cut down 4 large pieces of styrene sheet plastic to about 3" larger than the form. I preheated the oven to degrees. Since putting the plastic right on the rack would be a bad idea, I picked up a small panel of glass from IKEA for something like 5 dollars and put it in the oven. This piece of glass is slightly larger then the pieces of plastic I'll put on them.
Once the glass was warmed up I tossed the first sheet of styrene in the oven. I keep a close eye on it, checking it every 15 seconds or so to see if it was soft. It probably took about a minute. Used a pair of thick work gloves, I pulled the sheet out and immediately started pressing it over the form for the first side panel. Once it cooled and the plastic hardened, I now had the curved surface.
You can see what this looks like in picture 2. I repeated this process 3 more times to give me the main pieces needed. Using the blueprints, I traced the patterns onto these pieces and cut them out using both my band saw and Dremel.
I also cut out all of the inner holes and shapes. Picture 3 shows the result of this work. The vent covers also spent some quality time on the drill press drilling many many holes.
Next up is the spacers. The top piece was then glued to these and I had a good solid surface. These blocks also locked the shape, preventing the panels from being able to flex- important. Picture 4 shows a panel glued together and drying. The blue painters tape is there to hold the whole thing together while it dries.
I had a roll of aluminum tape that I used to cover the light chamber, making it as reflective as possible.
This worked great, as aluminum tape is incredibly thin and very reflective. You can see in picture 5 how shiny it is. I unfortunately don't have a picture, but the 2 LEDs were also added at this stage.
One on each side of the chamber, and the wires were joined to run through one of the supporting posts that will attach to the main core of the body. The last image, picture 7 , shows one of the side panels temporarily attached to the core with the corresponding handle in place. It's starting to look pretty good. The last step was to build up the rounded edges. I used Apoxie Sculpt fill in the edges, smoothing them out as much as possible.
There is a picture of the clay in place during the texture gel step, so be sure to look for it. This gun has a BIG clip, but it does need to hold diggers, so it makes sense. This step will cover the three pieces that make up this part of the gun. The two side rails and the actual clip. Picture 1 shows what the end of the basic construction for these pieces will look like in place. There is still a lot of work to be done on the clip, but most of it is weathering and detail work.
Let's start with the side rails. Side Rails One interesting thing I discovered when looking over this part of the design, was that the clip and rails are not perpendicular to the side of the core that they will attach too. If you look closely at picture 1 you will notice that the pieces are angled slightly towards the front of the gun, the left side of the screen. So the rails and clip with need to be trimmed to fit this angle.
The two side rails look more complicated then they actually are and were fairly quick and easy to build. Inside of that is just 2 pieces of styrene layered on top of each other, getting smaller with each one.
I used Apoxie Sculpt again to created the 45 bevel between the layers. The bottom of each rail was notched to fit within the core.
You can see this notching in picture 4. Like many other pieces there are a few more detail pieces, like screws that will be added.
Clip I debated making the clip removable but decided it wasn't really necessary to do that since the gun isn't really meant to be handled all that much. So permanently attached clip it is. Step one was to build the angled side pieces of the clip. Picture 2. A few support bars were added between the two sides to make one large piece. I then took a large piece of styrene and glued it to one full side of the clip.
Using my heat gun I bend the styrene around the curve and glued it to the other side. Picture 3 shows the progress of gluing the styrene down. The base work for the clip is now finished but it still has a lot of detail work to go.
It will get a bunch of bolts, leather straps, gashes, and texture on the surface. You'll see this progress in the coming steps. This Gun has two types of strapping in various places. The leather straps are part of the actually design of the weapon, and then there are cloth straps that have been added on by its user to the handles and gears.
Lets start with the leather straps first. Leather Strapping There are two places on this gun that will get leather strapping. The first is the 2 strips across the top on the central core of the gun.
The second is around the clip. If you jump back to the one of the reference photos, you'll see these locations. I did a bunch of research into various types of leather remnants found on Ebay, but none of it really fit what I was looking for in the straps on the Digger.
I finally decided that leather belts were going to be my best bet. I checked a couple of local thrift stores and was fortunate enough to find 2 matching belts that were just the right size and color, picture 1.
I needed 2 belts because of the amount of leather strapping on the gun. I cut the belt down to the various sized pieces needed, and then started on weathering them.
Can't have the leather straps looking all new-ish on a gun that is so beat up and dirty. Enter the sandpaper and rasps. Aging leather is fairly easy to do. I started by taking a rough grit sandpaper and roughing up the edges of all pieces to make them look a little more worn.
I then took a rasp and used its really sharp edges to add some small and some deep scratches into the surface of the leather. If you don't have rasps, you can use anything with a rough sharp edge to achieve the same look. It was inspired from the "Digger" grenade where the player takes a digger and shoves it down on the ground.
Cliffy B. Gears of War 3 Wiki Guide. Last Edited: 18 Oct am. It is harder to master because of the few seconds that it takes after the "Digger" burrows out into the open. However the trade off is the explosive carnage that takes place behind cover.
As such, this is an effective weapon to clear out campers that are hiding in cover. It is possible, if shot at the correct height, to impale an enemy with the digger which will instantly kill them. The digger can be easily avoided by both the loud characteristic sound of the digger projectile approaching, and the delayed explosion once it has emerged.
The explosion has a slightly smaller proximity than the frag grenade, requiring more precise shots. If the user aims in the direction of an opponent, the aiming trajectory will automatically place itself onto the enemy, meaning trying to adjust the length the explosive travels is not necessary.
Hip-firing the digger, though not encouraged, can still be effective so long as you aim in the general direction of an opponent. The explosive will dig forward and pop up the moment it encounters an opposing character. A digger shot directly at your feet will cause the explosive to pop up and explode almost as soon as it hits the ground.
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